How To Buy An Overcoat

How To Buy An Overcoat

How To Buy An Overcoat, By design, an overcoat is meant to be worn over a suit jacket or a sport coat and because of that, it’s usually a little wider.

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Of course, you can also decide not to wear it with a jacket and simply get the trimmer silhouette, but it pays to keep in mind

what you want to wear it with so you get the right fit. Sadly, in this day and age, overcoats have been largely neglected

and so most department stores you only find single-breasted versions, maybe black and dark gray and that’s about it.

Things To Consider Before Buying An Overcoat

Obviously, a bespoke overcoat is awesome because you can pick the fabric, you could pick the details, and the fit is going to be sublime.

The problem is, a true custom garment is always very expensive and so I’d say good luck finding one for under two thousand dollars,

however, if you look at all the garments out there, I believe that the overcoat is the one that you least likely have to make bespoke simply

because it’s made of a heavier fabric that tends to drape better and hide your flaws more easily and therefore you end up with a better garment.

For example, my right shoulder is about two inches lower than my left one and if I wear a suit jacket or a sport coat,

you can definitely see wrinkles especially in the back and in front. Now with an overcoat, you can either see fewer wrinkles or if the fabric is really heavy,

you can’t see any wrinkles at all. So if you opt for a heavy fabric, I don’t think you need to go with a bespoke overcoat.

Overcoat Fit

First of all, you want to make sure it has the proper shoulder width. If you look at our guide on how a suit should fit,

you learn that the shoulder seam should be slightly extended from your shoulder bone. Because you wear the overcoat on top of a jacket,

it should be even further extended but not by too much otherwise, you’ll get ugly wrinkles here and it just looks like a football player.

When it comes to overcoat sleeves, you should pay attention to those two things. First of all, you want enough width in the sleeve especially

on top because you’re wearing something underneath a bit such as a sweater or a jacket and so you need extra room.

Avoid a sleeve that is too tight and I know the current fashion is to go with something that’s really trim, however,

it will impact your range of movement and the comfort when you wear it. The second thing to consider is the sleeve length.

Unlike a suit jacket or a sport coat, you don’t want to show anything of your shirt cuff or your jacket sleeve.

Ideally, you want the sleeve to end at the beginning of your thumb. If it’s too long, it looks like the overcoat came from your older brother.

If it’s too short, it simply helps cold air to get in and you don’t want that. Ideally, the torso of your overcoat should be fitted like an

hourglass shape which means broad on the top, slightly accentuated in your waist, and then broader again.

It is just a very masculine shape, it accentuates your V, and it’s very attractive.

So if you buy an overcoat, make sure you wear the same layers you will, later on, otherwise, you may end up with something that is too tight.

If you button your coat and you see X wrinkles, it’s a clear indicator that it’s too tight. If you see vertical folds,

it means there’s too much fabric and you should find something that is trimmer. Of course, always keep in mind that you can also go to your alterations tailor.

If you’re able to grab more than a few inches of fabric around your torso, it’s simply too much.

One option to achieve a visually slimmer waist is to go with a belt because you can really tighten it more than without one. No matter how the overcoat fits you off the rack, chances are it will look even better if you have it tailored.

So when you buy a new overcoat, reserve about a hundred- hundred fifty dollars for alterations.

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